The food and the historic architecture is what drew me to the Big Easy. New Orleans breathes the things that make life worth living. Eating. Drinking. Celebrating. We went in the off season to save some $$.
This trip was amazing.
We started in the famed French Quarter which is New Orleans’ oldest neighborhood dating back to 1718. The overhanging iron balconies with the greenery dripping down makes you feel like you’re frozen in time. We ate in the Vieux Carre a few times over the trip and the food was incredible. We sampled local delicacies like alligator, po’boys, red beans with rice and beignets from the well known Café Du Monde.
Next we walked the short distance to Jackson Square and boarded the Steamboat Natchez for a jazz and lunch voyage. The paddlewheel cruise steps you back into the romance of the riverboat era down the Mississippi River. The staff are dressed in period costumes. A lively jazz band plays and everyone smiles at your adorable children as they dance in the lavish saloon area. The creole buffet was mediocre with Louisina staples such as jambalaya, southern fried fish, bread pudding and banana foster. You can sit and sip on the deck or wander the ships mechanics rooms. This was a great excursion for kids because they can run a little wild and still get some culture.
It wouldn’t be a family vacation without a walk amongst the city of the dead. The hauntingly beautiful past in New Orleans is unrivalled. We did an inexpensive tour through St Louis Cemetery No. 1. I’m sure it was informative but we were mostly just trying to keep the kids off of the tombs. It was cool to wander through the resting place for voodoo queens and the future pyramid catacomb to Nicholas Cage.
Day 2 was my favourite thanks to an amazing plantation and swamp trek by Isabelle Tours. We did a flat bottomed cruise instead of the airboat because I didn’t love the idea of wrecking the critter habitats we were there to enjoy. Alligators are often dormant in the colder months but we did luck out and spot a few little guys at the end. We saw a lot of swampy slew with entrancing vines and graceful birdies while our local guide schooled us on the lay of the land.
The Laura Plantation was an educational glimpse into the lives of the early Cajun settlers and slavery up to the Civil War. The guide was great and explained the sugar cane industry, the tragic transition of labour classes and life along the bayou.
The Oak Valley Plantation is one of the most gorgeous vistas I’ve witnessed. The landscape and formal gardens are unparalleled. The Big House is set up so you can imagine living in an 1830’s kitchen or dining in the opulent parlour. The slavery database is a chilling record on display that determined a person’s worth based on their origins, relationships, attributes and family history. We puttered around the property both with a guide and on our own. The open spaces outside were good for the kids to burn some energy. A lunch was served with chicken and andouille sausage gumbo. They made chicken tenders for the kids which was appreciated. There were about 10 people in our group and I would highly recommend this tour if you are in the area.
We rented an Airbnb at a great price near the French Quarter just off of Canal Street. It had an amazing roof top deck. We could walk to most of our destinations.
Turns out it also had a parkade directly across the alley that omitted a blinding light 24/7. Good thing I brought sleeping pills. And I’d be cautious when walking down Canal Street into town. The bars don’t ever shut down and there is some questionable goings on in the early mornings. And evenings. I had a lovely burned out woman shout f bombs and foul obscenities at my 3 year old for giggling while she skipped down the road to breakfast.
The weather went from spectacular to freezing during our trip and so we made a stop at the Louisiana’s Children Museum to hang out inside. This was the kids’ favourite day and we had to drag them out. There are a bajillion exhibits like a mock grocery store, vet’s office, water tables, construction site, music area and outdoor nature playgrounds.
Bourbon Street is a noisy and raucous 13 blocks extending through the French Quarter. We went for a very early dinner and by the time we were heading out shortly after 4pm the street had started to fill with the nocturnal party people. Luckily the kids missed the beads being thrown from the balconies. We got a taste of the constant celebration with some good old fashioned jazz bands performing on various corners. A little day drinking is always called for when visiting a party mecca so we hit a couple tacky tourist shops with undercover hooch and then called it a night.
My only regret is not visiting the Garden District. We had planned on spending a half day walking around but the conditions went from 20 to 0 Celsius in 2 days and with the littles it just seemed like a bad idea. I had not packed for freezing temperatures.
Eat your way through this city. Spanish Oak trees and swamp life are spectacular. This is the birthplace of jazz and live music is everywhere. The mystique voodoo culture and haunted undertones are a spooky good time. I’d suggest putting New Orleans on your bucket list.
“There are a lot of places I like, but I like New Orleans better.” – Bob Dylan
NOVEMBER 2019
KIDS AGES: 3 and 5 years old
paRty of 4 